DOI: https://doi.org/10.55373/mjchem.v25i5.251

Keywords: Ylang essential oil; antioxidant; sunscreen, facial spray

Abstract

Ylang flower (Cananga odorata) contains essential oils that have the potential as antioxidants and sunscreens based on their constituent components. Based on its potential, cananga oil is very possibly to be applied as a cosmetic in the form of a facial spray. The research aimed to isolate the cananga essential oil, characterize its physical properties, identify the components, antioxidant, and sunscreen activity test, and formulate cananga essential oil as a facial spray. This research consisted of 5 stages, namely: 1) isolation of cananga essential oil using the steam-water distillation method, 2) characterization of cananga oil which included shape, color, density, boiling point, refractive index, and optical rotation, 3) identification of components of cananga oil using Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometer 4) antioxidant activity test using radical scavenging method by DPPH and sunscreen activity using the spectrophotometric method, and 5) formulation test and evaluation of cananga oil as a facial spray using mixing method which refers to SNI 16-0218-1987. Isolated cananga flower essential oil obtained 0.66% yield. This oil is liquid, light yellow, has a distinctive aroma of cananga flower, density of 0.916 g.cm-3, the refractive index of 1.492 (25 °C), boiling point of 121.0–123.0°, and specific rotation -25.76°dm-1g-1mL. The main component of cananga oil is β-caryophyllene with a content of 46.04%. Cananga oil has 15 components that show the characteristics of antioxidant activities and 7 components that show the characteristics of sunscreen activities. The antioxidant activity test of cananga oil is IC50 1414 g.mL-1 which indicates a weak category. The sunscreen activity of cananga oil based on SPF value is 7.6060 which indicates a weak protection category. The formulation of cananga oil as facial spray obtained a liquid form, light yellow, with a fresh aroma and the pH value met the safe limit value to be applied to the skin.